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KMID : 0984920180200010031
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Journal of Skin Barrier Research
2018 Volume.20 No. 1 p.31 ~ p.37
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Moisturizers for Skin Barrier
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Kim Gun-Wook
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Abstract
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Moisturizer is a major component of basic daily skin care, particularly in presence of epidermal barrier alteration and reduced epidermal water content. There are three main types of moisturizers depending on their mechanism of action. (1) Emollients are mostly made up of lipids and oils, which hydrate and improve the skin softness, flexibility, and smoothness. In stratum corneum, ceramides are the major lipid constituents and along with neutral lipids, they form broad laminated intercellular sheets, which act as barriers to our environment. Natural ceramides are too expensive and several pseudo-ceramides are useful as emollients. (2) Occlusives are substances that serve the function of maintaining skin water content by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin and blocking transepidermal water loss. (3) Humectants consist of hygroscopic substances which can help the stratum corneum to absorb water by attracting water from dermis and a humid environment into the epidermis. Natural moisturizing factor made of mixture of low molecular weight soluble hygroscopic compounds such as lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and amino acids is a major player for hydration of the stratum corneum. Our review helps provide a fundamental understanding of the physical and chemical effects of the use of moisturizers.
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KEYWORD
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Emollient, Humectant, Moisturizer, Occlussive, Skin barrier
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